Pearls are different from other gemstones since, instead of forming underground over millions of years, they develop inside a living organism, in layers, over a period of months or years. It is this process which causes them to have their warmth, their iridescence, and their remarkable surface finish, and it is the same thing that makes them a bit more particular regarding the way they are treated.
The good thing is that looking after pearls isn't complicated; it just takes knowing a few facts people often don't hear when they buy them.
The most important rule: last on, first off
You should put on your pearl jewellery only after having applied perfume, hairspray, moisturiser, sunscreen, or any other product and take it off first as soon as you get home; this one habit will do more to help preserve your pearls than anything else.
The reason is straightforward: pearls are made of calcium carbonate, the same substance as shell, and they don't tolerate acids or chemicals well. Over time, perfume, lotions and cleaning products can wear away the nacre, causing the lustre to fade and eventually leading to pits appearing on the surface. Nacre gives a pearl its beauty and, once damaged, cannot be repaired.
After wearing: wipe gently.
After each wear, clean your pearls with a gentle, dry cloth. This removes traces of skin oil, sweat, or product residue before they can remain on the surface. A specialised jewellery cloth is suitable; a clean part of a soft cotton cloth will do just as well.
Do not use anything abrasive. Unless the jewellery cleaning solution has been specially designed for pearls (since most aren't), do not use it. Also, do not use ultrasonic cleaners because the vibrations can damage both the nacre and the setting.
Keep them away from water.
Pearls must not be worn when swimming, in the shower, or in the bath since water softens the silk thread of stringed pearl necklaces and can cause the knots to weaken over time; for wire-set pieces such as ours, in which the pearls are permanently attached to a chain, concern also exists about the metal as well as the pearl.
If the pearls have got wet, gently pat them dry with a soft cloth, then let them air-dry completely before storing them.
Store them carefully
Don't keep pearls loose in a jewellery box, since they might knock against metal or other harder stones. Pearls are softer than most gemstones, rating about 2.5 to 4.5 on the Mohs scale, and they scratch more easily than people think.
Put each piece individually into a soft pouch or wrap it in cloth. Don't use airtight containers, since pearls need a small amount of moisture in the air to keep the nacre from drying out and cracking over time.
Also, avoid keeping them in direct sunlight or near heat sources, since prolonged heat exposure may cause the nacre to dry out, discolour, or crack.
A note on natural pearls specifically
Natural and cultured pearls, such as baroque pearls, Keshi pearls, and Akoya pearls, may have slight differences in surface texture which are completely normal. Small ridges, dimples, or the typical ripple found in a Keshi pearl are features of genuine nacre and not defects. The only special care required for these natural qualities is that described above.
The beauty of a natural pearl becomes more striking as a result of being worn regularly and with care; the body's heat together with the oils from the skin can in fact improve the surface after many years of use. This is one of the reasons why pearls that have been greatly worn often appear better than those which are new.
Quick reference: pearl care at a glance
- Do put pearls on last, after perfume and products
- Do wipe with a soft dry cloth after wearing
- Do store separately, in a soft pouch
- Don't wear in water, including the shower
- Don't use standard jewellery cleaners or ultrasonic cleaners
- Don't store in airtight containers or direct sunlight
- Don't let them knock against harder stones or metal
Questions?
If you have any questions about caring for a particular item, such as a Keshi necklace, a wire-set baroque pearl, or a larimar and pearl station necklace, please get in touch. Because all Pearl Art Nature pieces are handmade, I am always happy to advise on how to keep them looking their best.
For more care guides, see How to Clean Silver Jewellery, How to Store Pearl Jewellery, How to Tell If Your Pearls Are Real, and How to Clean Gemstone Jewellery.